Greeted by my host’s daughter, my mind quickly filled with questions. Do I remove my boots outside? Is there a customary greeting for entering a home? Do I let her lead the way or go in first?! I hoped I wouldn’t embarrass myself by hitting my head while ducking through that door!
COVER, SHELL AND HOME
COME INSIDE AND EAST ASIAN GEROn the vast steppes of East Asia nearly 30% of the population still leads a nomadic lifestyle. Central to this way of life is the ger, a traditional dwelling which is portable, round, and covered in durable waterproof canvas. In the local language, ger means “cover, shell and home”. On a day that was dipping below 30° Celsius, I was grateful to step inside one. Come have a look.
As it turns out, there was no need to remove my footwear, but stepping OVER the threshold – not on it – was pointed out. I was greeted warmly and quickly offered what looked like a cup of hot milk. The steaming mug warmed my cold hands and a cursory sip surprised my tastebuds. As it turns out, this milk beverage contained tea and salt! Salted milk tea! I’m not sure it was delicious but it made for a memorable experience.
My host asked me to sit at the spot farthest from the door. As it turns out, this is spot is customarily reserved for the most senior (old) of the guests. Guess that’s me. Ha! We all had a good chuckle.
Central to life in a ger is a wood or coal burning stove. Without it, life simply wouldn’t be possible. Not only is it a source of heat, but it’s also used for cooking. Though air quality suffers both indoors and out, I must admit that there’s something wonderful about the smell and sound of a wood fire.
You may know a steamed meat dumpling by its Tibetan or Nepali name, momo. In this region, they’re known as “buuz” and are typically made with a thicker wrapper and have a slightly gamey flavor profile due to the use of mutton and extra fat. As a beloved national dish, they are a culinary staple and welcome at any occasion.
In the center of the roof is the wooden “crown” of the ger. Though a ger may be rebuilt, the crown will often remain intact. It’s even passed along from father to son. It’s both a decorative and functional element – controlling ventilation and light.
This close-up photograph captures a painted detail on one of the interior roof supports. Orange is a symbol of peace, joy and contentment. Historically it was a dye color that was readily available and in Buddhism is connected to the highest state of illumination.
Take note of the blue shape in this design. Ethnographic researches believe that nomads first created this ornament by replicating the long and curved horns of wild animals. These types of designs have been used to decorate palaces, monasteries, gers and furniture. In this case, the front of a trunk has been decorated, a trunk that has been passed down mother to daughter for several generations.
These seemingly simple throw pillows are actually clothes storage in disguise. With space at a premium, the clothes are swapped out as the seasons change. Brilliant!
Traditionally, the single door of a ger will face south, allowing for maximum sunlight – particularly during the warmer months. In the winter you’ll find thick insulation fixed to the door to keep things toasty inside.
Though it makes sense that local people would be accustomed to the cold it was simply shocking to me just how comfortable they were! On this sunny day the temperature still dipped to a “real feel” of -41 Celsius. I in my hat, scarf, gloves and multiple layers was in awe of this little girl with seemingly not a care in the world for the cold.
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