HEARTLAND

The airport was about 30 miles from the main urban center, and my destination was in the opposite direction. Of the 70,000 miles of road here, we travelled a stretch of the 4% that is paved. Before complete whiteout conditions forced us to stop for the night, I witnessed more sheep crossing the road than I thought reasonable for their health, and mine. Truth be told, extreme winter weather, rather than road fatalities, have the most devastating impact on national animal populations. I learned that in 2024 alone, severe weather saw the loss of over 7 million head of livestock. What kind of people live in these conditions?

Though no expert in local construction, it seemed to me that this home was fairly representative of the area. A gracious local host invited us in and almost immediately offered us cookies. Hospitality is a hallmark of the culture here. The home was downright cold at first, but a fire was soon raging in a central wood burning stove with a chimney that is routed through a thick masonry wall. Rather than venting straight outdoors, the hot smoke travels through channels in the wall which radiates heat. Electricity powered a couple of bare bulbs, but there was no indoor plumbing. A small above sink reservoir was used for washing up, and trips to the loo meant heading to the outhouse.

A ger is a traditional round home that’s been used by nomadic families here for centuries. It’s made with a wooden frame and covered with layers of canvas and felt, which helps keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer. One of the best things about a ger is that it can be taken apart, moved, and set up again pretty quickly, making it perfect for people who travel with their livestock. Though it looks simple from the outside, the inside of a ger is often cozy, comfortable and decorated with colorful furniture. We shared a bite inside one with local believers after church. For a closer look, click here.

For many centuries, Tibetan Buddhism was the main religion here, often mixed with traditional shamanism. During the communist purges in the late 1930s, more than 1,250 Buddhist monasteries and temples were destroyed, and thousands of monks were killed. When religious freedom was restored in 1990, people were allowed to practice any religion openly again after decades of communist restrictions. Many monasteries were rebuilt, new temples were opened, and people could worship without fear of punishment. Tibetan Buddhism experienced a strong revival, while religions such as Christianity and Islam were also able to grow. Pray with us that the seeds of the Gospel will continue to find good soil in the hearts of spiritual seekers.

Winters in this part of the world are among the harshest on Earth. Temperatures can plunge below -40F, especially during sever winters known as a dzud. Some herders put coats on young calves, sick animals or high-value breeding animals to keep them warm. Cattle here are much more than livestock. They are a source of food, transportation (historically), wealth, and family security. They are not generally considered sacred in the way cows are in places like India, but instead there is a relationship rooted in respect, interdependence, and gratitude.

Honestly, a sweet shop took me by surprise. Historically sweet treats in the region come from dairy rather than sugar – think dried curds or yogurt. Since the 90’s, however, you can find chocolate from Europe and Russia, Korean snacks, American candy and even Bubble Tea! Since hospitality is such an important facet of local culture, you’ll be sure to be offered candy, cookies, and/or tea with milk when invited into a local home.

Did you know that winter horse racing was a thing? Me neither! Though I didn’t experience it, I understand it’s one of several traditional cultural activities including eagle hunting, skating and ice fishing. But with long snowy winters, sledding is accessible to just about anyone. Kids and kids at heart take to the slopes on just about anything that will slide. In the big city there are even designated sledding hills during winter festivals. Our time tubing was crazy cold but there were lots of smiles to go around and hot milk tea at the end of it all.

While on the road to the capital city, a small blue shack caught our attention – rather, the frozen fish hanging from the eaves caught our attention. We were hooked! In the deep winter months, it’s not uncommon to see whole fish, cuts of beef, mutton or even horse meet stored outdoors or displayed outside a shop. All the things stay safely frozen in the cold air. Inside the shop were several cardboard boxes of smoked fish. I gladly purchased one and put it in a seat-back pocket to thaw. In this landlocked country, the fish sold here are freshwater species, caught in local lakes and rivers. (If the Pioneer I rode with is reading, I DID remember to remove it… though I suppose you’d have known if I hadn’t!)

If you’re like me, you love the vibe of a capital city. Traffic and noise, good smells and bad, and people, people, people. Something that caught my eye was the number of locals wearing synthetic outerwear. As an outsider, with just a cursory knowledge of the country, I kind of expected more fur. As I understand it, historically, fur has been extremely important here. Traditional clothing included sheep and lambskin coats for everyday warmth and fur hats, collars and boots lined with sheepskin or felt. I saw these types of things in the countryside. But as it turns out, modern insulation works pretty well, can be less expensive, and urban populations often have access to international brands. While not directly related, this makes me wonder about the differences in rural and urban church planting here.

I don’t know what the wind chill is on a scooter at low speed, but I did some checking, and the high on this day was 21°F and the low was -4°F. Balmy right? Can you imagine riding a motorbike in those conditions? Do note the upgraded handle grips which feature built in mittens to ward off the wind. As in other urban centers in Asia, food delivery here continues to gain popularity – though it’s usually by car! Snow, ice, potholes and heavy traffic continues to fuel the demand for delivery, but these very factors slow delivery times.

The street food scene here is quite different than in other capital cities I’ve encountered in Asia. Long harsh winters have shaped a cultural preference for indoor dining. But options do exist, particularly during the warmer months. Khuushuur, fried meat pies, are the primary street food which are most widely available during festivals and holidays. Buuz, steamed dumplings, are a staple, and skewered mutton or beef, called  shashlik, is hard to pass up when walking past the outdoor charcoal grills. Trying the food of another culture can be one of the simplest ways to begin caring about the people who made it. It’s not just calories; it’s history, geography, family tradition, and identity served on a plate.

During morning prayers, thick plumes of fragrant juniper smoke waft from this cast bronze incense burner at a Buddhist monastery. In Buddhist tradition, the sound waves generated by the bells that hang from it are believed to scatter the prayers, mantras, and blessings embedded in the incense smoke, out into the world. Even when no incense is burning, the ringing is considered an auspicious act that clears away negative spiritual energy. In a country that continues to experience renewed religious exploration, pray the Lord of the Harvest would send workers to this field.