OUT WEST – NORTH AFRICA

Medinas are often the historic core of an old city, sometimes dating to the Middle Ages. This one was surrounded by thick walls originally meant to protect the city from intruders. It was car-free with narrow, maze-like streets shared by pedestrians, donkeys, push-carts and motorbikes. Taxis packed the streets outside the gates, eager for a fare from the shoppers within, both tourists and locals alike.

Tajine refers to both a cone-shaped cooking pot and the North African dish cooked within it. Steam gets trapped in the lid of the pot causing it to condense and drip back into the bowl below. This makes for slow and even cooking. A tajine meal is often a stew or casserole. With the lid removed, the pot below becomes a serving dish from which a communal meal is shared.

In the warren of souks, I noticed a spectacled barber with a straight razor in hand. Stepping into his shop felt like entering a tiny time capsule. With permission to take a few photographs, I snapped a few frames and waited. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to get in his chair. Imagine learning a local language and engaging with a neighborhood barber regularly. It’s such a natural place to build bridges and connect – though I don’t recommend chatting during the shave!

Ever been to a North African tannery? The acrid odor will lead you straight to one. What I’d never guessed is that the hides are first soaked in a mixture of cow urine, quicklime, water, and salt. This caustic mixture helps break down the leather to loosen excess fat, flesh, and hair that remain on them. The hides are then soaked in another set of vats containing a mixture of water and pigeon poop! Evidently the pigeon poop contains ammonia that softens the hides so they absorb dye. My question is how was this all discovered?! 

Clay pottery is deeply rooted in diverse cultural and regional traditions here. Artisans craft pottery using natural clay sourced from local deposits, and shape it by hand or on a potter’s wheel. One region is known for brightly colored glazed ceramics, often adorned with geometric patterns and arabesques. In contrast, more rustic and earthy styles can be found in rural areas, where pottery is frequently used for practical purposes such as cooking, storage, and water jugs. Traditionally, potters rely on a wood-fired kiln to bake their creations, which gives the pieces a distinctive finish. Couldn’t help but think of Isaiah 64:8 as I watched this craftsman at work.

Do you like cinnamon or cardamom in your coffee? If so, then this cup is for you! It was not my cup of tea. Coffee here is prepared with finely ground Arabica beans and brewed in a pot similar to a cezve (used for Turkish coffee), allowing for a concentrated and bold flavor. It’s typically sweetened with sugar and is second only in popularity to mint tea, another hallmark of the local culture.

The Islamic celebrations of Eid are a time for socializing, family gatherings, and community events. Near the ocean, when the heat of the day subsides, it’s also a popular time to play football on the beach. Believers can pray for their Muslim friends during Eid by asking God to help them thirst for Jesus, and have a hunger for the Word.

The slums of this sea side city paint a stark picture of urban disparity don’t they? Informal settlements, known locally as bidonvilles, are marked by rows of makeshift homes. They lack basic infrastructure like reliable electricity, running water or proper sewage systems but I understand that they have a vibrant sense of resilience and survival. I suspect that making an impact here would require a keen understanding of the local context, long term goals, partnerships, and a comprehensive approach. 

It seems to me that fishing is hard work the world over – and those who rely on traditional gill-nets can be up against enormous commercial operations using industrial fishing techniques. Some entrepreneurs use their boats as water taxies, ferrying people across the river for a small fee. There are fewer ferries than local busses or taxis but the journey may be a welcome break from the traffic.

Ready for a dip? Although this region borders the Mediterranean Sea to the North, this photo was taken on the coast of the North Atlantic and that water is cold!! To me the craggy coast looks almost volcanic but as it turns out it’s simply the action of the waves crashing into the relatively soft sandstone. I wonder if those boys were daring each other to get in!

As I understand it, late in the 12 century construction began on what was planned to be one of the largest mosques in the world. The project was never completed. Today there are about 200 columns that remain scattered around the site. These columns have stood since the Crusades, Black Death, the Fall of Constantinople, the Reformation, Napoleonic Wars, and the World Wars! For me, being under a starlit sky often finds me feeling small and sensing Gods greatness. Standing next to these columns made me feel fleeting, yet reminded me that our Fathers’ Kingdom is both complete and eternal. 

At a late hour, having traveled many miles and taken in so many things, I expected quiet to have gripped the neighborhood of my guest house – ummmm, no. If you’re a night owl, coastal cities in this region may be the perfect place for you. The weather can be hot during the day, making the evening and night a perfect time for night-markets, walks, socializing and dining out. Made me think about how being light in the darkness could intersect with cafe culture. What do you think?